And suddenly, here was our first challenge. We were two hours from Port Townsend, Washington with nightfall quickly approaching on the first night of our journey to Alaska. Lenore didn’t even have radar. But she carried four survival suits and one survival raft. A Loran was our only guide, plus a compass and nautical charts for the Seattle-Alaska inside passage. Mark remained calm, and although he had to answer to Clancy, he was able to safely bring us into port because he had moored there several times and new the bay and its tides. Luckily, the dock was well lit.
Port Townsend was the last of the big towns we would see on our entire trip. Our provision and gasoline stops centered around tiny outposts and Indian villages along the Georgia, Queen Charlotte, and Hecate Straits before we would arrive in Ketchikan, two weeks later. That night the four of us celebrated the Catalina’s virgin end-of-May voyage with a celebratory dinner of Quilcene oysters on the half-shell, prawns, scallops, and fresh Halibut, washed down with Red Hook beers for Mark and me and virgin Daquiris for Clancy and Alice. They were Mormon and did not drink alcohol or smoke tobacco, though thankfully they drank caffeine. During dinner, Alice brought out photos of their five grown children, living in various places throughout the western United States. She was proud of their accomplishments. Clancy, having retired from the Army five years earlier, explained he was living out his dream of buying a sailboat and being able to travel and live-aboard. He had grown up in Michigan and spent a fair amount of his childhood sailing on the Great Lakes. Alice grew up in southern Minnesota and was mostly used to seeing flat, farmland. But she was game for trying the sailing life. Both Clancy and Alice were in their mid-fifties, greying and growing wider with the years. The main difference was in their demeanor. While Alice was soft spoken, Clancy was the opposite, boorish and loud.
After dinner, our two providers drifted off to bed while Mark and I had a few more drinks and several cigarettes, savoring them while knowing they would be our last until we docked again. We discussed our two crewmates and questioned the intelligence of our agreement to become crewmembers. After all, we weren’t being paid or guaranteed any work upon arriving in Seward. Mark then reminded me that I didn’t hang up their “Want Ads” even though I said I had. Since I was young I had always wanted to go to Alaska and this was the perfect opportunity, which I couldn’t pass up, even though Mark was scheduled to work all summer, so I cleverly plotted a way for us to be the crewmembers. Clancy and Alice were confused at having received no calls from potential crewmates after their ad had been posted for two weeks and became a little panicked about not being able to get home. I suggested that we go and the deal was made. Mark observed that I wanted this trip, so why worry? He then cavalierly remarked we would make it to Alaska alive and able to sail any vessel back to Seattle if no cannery work was available. I believed he would get us there safely, how could I not? The rest of the summer would be taken day by day.
Much of our journey was spent motoring through the inside passage because we were often surrounded by towering, rocky mountains and very little wind from the ocean reached us. And when the wind did show up, it was often a head wind, which did us no good because the straits were often narrow and we didn’t have much room to tack. When I wasn’t on watch or steering, I often sat on the bow, salty air and my notebook as companions. Reading and writing were my only solitary times. After only a few days, a 42’ boat shrinks to the size of a bathtub. There wasn’t much privacy except in the head.
The brief moments of solitude, however, were just what I needed. Hawks, Osprey, and Ravens continually soared overhead. A myriad of gulls - Arctic Terns, Kittiwakes and Murres - competed for food. Many times I was privileged to see Bald Eagles hunting the seas and forests. After the first week, I was able to point out various species of trees by name - Pacific Yew, Silver Fir, Cedar, and White Spruce. Dolphins often surfed the wake sifting off Lenore’s bow, escorting us towards summer. The days continued to grow longer.
Sometimes Alice would join me on the bow. She often spoke about her children. Occasionally she would mention how important this trip was to her and Clancy. She felt it would bring them closer. I enjoyed our conversations together. But mainly we would marvel at the scenery. The pristine rain forests were neither harvested nor burned, and the beautifully varied coastline displayed secluded beaches and protected anchorages, where we often moored for the night. Unfortunately, we didn’t have a dinghy, so lounging on the sandy beaches was out of the question. We were stranded upon the water, twenty-four hours a day, which wasn’t a problem until we picked up provisions at a village. Our sea legs barely turned into land legs once we stopped at port. While shopping in the trading posts, we constantly felt as though we were still on the water, our inner ears making our heads feel like they were bobbing up and down with the waves. Locals were grounded while we swayed back and forth.
The most memorable trading post stop came in the form of Alert Bay on Campbell Island, B.C. We were in the land of the Haida. Thunderbird, Moon Wolf, and Sea Grizzly Bear guardian spirits greeted us on the outskirt of town. The faded multi-colored totem poles towered over Lenore’s mast, which was itself an impressive thirty-nine feet. We lucked out with a sunny sixty degree day. A gang of five Indian boys and girls greeted us as we landed at the gasoline shack. They waved then ran up the gravel lane toward the trading post. After gassing up, Mark and I decided to explore, while Clancy and Alice argued over what groceries to buy - which brand of canned beans, white or wheat bread, bologna or tuna fish, Cheez Whiz or Kraft slices, apples or fruit cocktail? Bummer, no greens. A few of the cedar plank houses sported a run-down vehicle of sorts, and a few houses had motorcycles or dirt bikes. But there wasn’t much point since the tiny village was on a tiny island, about twenty miles in diameter - where did they ride to? But nearly every yard had a boat of some sort - be it canoe, dinghy, fishing boat. Fishing was their main source of living. Too soon it was time to board our vessel and head north, forever north.
By the time it was mid-June, the days were definitely longer, yet wetter. We hit a four-day streak of long, grey, drizzly nine-hour days of shivering and motoring. Where was the damned wind? We were all gloomy and cold. I was sick of the greasy potatoes and eggs and would have killed for a huge green salad with all the trimmings. I’d kill for a long hot shower and dry, warm clothes, too. Supposedly Ketchikan was one day away.
The crooning voice of Van Morrison singing Moondance greeted us first, belting from a fisherman’s stereo, while the sun’s strong rays warmed our wilted moods. We then caught sight of Ketchikan, perched beside the water and meandering along the gently sloping hillside. After various boating duties and showers at the municipal marina, the four of us split up and moseyed on our own paths. We needed our space. After browsing in shops for a couple of hours, I ran into Mark. We agreed we were damned tired of the small berth we slept in plus the lack of privacy. It was time to spend some of our squirreled away cash on a room for the night. We marveled at the notion of a soft bed and bath, two nights in a row - what luxury!
A storm off the Gulf of Alaska kept us nested in the small fishing village of Elfin Cove for three days. It was beautiful there and I didn’t mind staying longer. But Clancy and Mark were getting on each other’s nerves, Alice was bugging Clancy, and Clancy definitely was irritating me! We were ready for the adventure to end, but the scariest part was in front of us. Apparently it took three solid days and two long nights of non-stop motoring to get across the Gulf of Alaska, just 800 short miles. If there was any hint of a storm, it would be virtual suicide to continue. Thus, our unscheduled stay in Elfin Cove. Just to reach this cove of paradise, we had to sail down Icy Strait through Glacier Bay. Yes, ice bergs were floating all around. The trip until that point was not without its perilous moments. Several times we almost crashed the boat into submerged ice, got caught in unforeseen fogbanks and crashed ashore, or didn’t anchor far enough off-shore to keep us off land once the tide receded. Pesky situations, indeed, but a storm was life or death. Winds could easily reach 50-60 knots with waves 30 feet and higher. The boat could probably survive, but we wouldn’t.
Between Clancy being antsy about returning home, Alice bedraggled and sick from the sailing, yet continually upbeat, and Mark and I desperately wishing for our freedom, we greeted the July 4th fireworks with mixed enthusiasm. Somehow, a fireworks display at midnight in full sunlight doesn’t really work. This town, population of maybe 50 people, was accessible only by boat or float plane, and had one small store and a post office. Boardwalks threaded along the wooded shore and around the protected inner harbor where fishing lodges and homesteads perched on stilts. We were trapped in a picturesque, yet utterly boring town.
Tensions continued to grow between Clancy and Alice as our trip progressed. I couldn’t understand why he was acting like such an asshole because she was genuinely sweet and attentive. Although our journey across the gulf was fairly inconsequential, their behaviors became more and more bizarre. Clancy would yell at Alice, then she would go to their berth and cry. All Mark and I could do was sit at the bow or sit down below and navigate and ignore them. Finally we arrived in Seward and everyone’s mood lifted. That evening, after Clancy and Alice unloaded Lenore and loaded their jeep we had a farewell dinner at the Crusty Pelican. They were prepared to drive home to Kenai, 40 miles east, in the morning. Mark and I were still unsure of what to expect concerning work and a place to live, and were prepared to begin camping out in the campground. Because Clancy was in such a grand mood, he offered to let us stay in the boat until we found a job, provided we not mind when he took it out for a spin with our belongings inside. No problem, we thought.
It hadn’t been more than three days until we heard a knock on the hatch door. It was Clancy, holding a picnic basket and a bottle of wine. Without any apologies or explanations, he asked us to leave the boat until 8 p.m. that night. We asked where Alice was, but he ignored the question. As we were leaving, a young woman, easily 15 years younger than Clancy, walked up to the boat and called out. He eagerly greeted her, introduced us, and ushered us away. Hmmm, that was weird. There was no question in our minds about who she was or why she was there. The next day we gathered our belongings and set up at the campground. As luck would have it, the campground owner was the same woman Clancy was having an affair with. She was as embarrassed as we were disgusted. We saw them together a few times after that, but basically we ignored them and hoped for the best for Alice. Maybe she would get the boat.